Saturday, October 29, 2011

Tihar

Diwali
the festival of lights

Laxmi Puja

leading the goddess of wealth, Laxmi, into the home


  


my cousin's son wanted to join in




Bhai Tika
On the last day of Tihar, sisters bless their brothers and wishing them a long life in return for their protection. Brothers will bless their sisters and give a monetary gift.

4 out of 5 of my uncles lined up for Bhai Tika


my turn

the kid's section :)
















starting early


Tuesday, October 25, 2011

KTS


 
I have had an amazing experience working at the hospital. The clinical experience was phenomenal and incredibly eye-opening. Unfortunately since I do not have a medical degree, there was not much I could do to help the patients besides keep them company and cheer them up. I got to help the medical staff in small ways but one of my goals for this trip was to give back to the community and I felt like this clinical experience was not enough.
I planned to volunteer at Kumbeshwar Technical School (Read more about them here: http://www.kumbeshwar.com). I was interested in working at their primary school and orphanage. I contacted them when I arrived but the kids had exams until after the holidays.

yarn made from scratch at KTS


carpet weaving


After Dashain, I visited the school and met the kids. The school is free to all children that are admitted. It is funded by sales of their high-quality Fair Trade carpets, knitwear and furniture. I learned about how both sides work. 

the showroom
wood-working shop


knitting contest
the orphanage










Some of the stories I heard were incredible. One orphan was left on the side of the street as a baby because he was deaf and mute. The director found him, took him in, and sent him to school. Once he grew up, he moved out and got his own place but eventually came back to work at KTS. A lot of the teachers I have met are also former students. They are all one big family.



         

I asked to hear some more stories of the children in the orphanage and everyone was so open and willing to share, wanting to get the stories out there.
Shena Rai
Shena Rai was born on 14th Dec 2002 was admitted to the hostel in May 2007. She belongs to Okhaldhunga district far village outside Kathmandu. Shena's parents used to stay in a rented apartment in Boudha in Kathmandu valley. Her family was very poor and had lots of problems. Her father left her when she was about 1 years old; people say he married another woman and went to India to work. Her mother also left when she was 2 years old. Her neighbor looked after her but due to their poor economic condition they found it difficult to support her. The neighbor tried to admit her to the orphans home but was not successful. Luckily they found out about KTS and brought her here. Shena is now studying in Nursery class at KTS. She is a very quiet and shy girl.
 
Sharmila Shahi

Sharmila Shahi was born on 16th May 2001 in Kalikot District, one of the most remote villages of Nepal. Her father died when she was 17 months old. Her mother re-married and her step father did not accept her. She was brought to KTS orphanage home from the Child Empowerment Center, Nepal in June 2004. She is a quiet and friendly girl. She is studying at
KTS primary school grade 3.
 
Kisaan Chepang
Kisaan Chepang was born on 23 July 2010 (2061.04.08) in Terse, Taklung village in the Gorkha district. The community to which he belongs is one of the most backward communities in the
country. The community is in a cave of the remote hills of the jungle like in the stone age. His father died due to mental illness when he was 2 years old. His mother worked as a stone
breaker and found it difficult to look after him. He was recommended by Nepal Chepang Association and brought to us by member of constitution assembly, Mrs. Maya Chepang. He was admitted to the home on 21st June 2010. He is also studying in KTS primary school. He is a quiet and friendly boy.
  
Over the next few weeks I will be volunteering in the school library. My last couple visits have been incredibly inspiring; I am excited to be a part of it.

 

Childcraft books I donated
 
 
project using the Childcraft series


Friday, October 21, 2011

“Blood is thicker than water”


the girls of JUST one aunt's family
At home it’s just me and my brother but I have a huge extended family. By huge I mean my mom is one of ten children, most of whom have 4, 5, 6, even 7 kids themselves. I have almost 40 first cousins, the oldest of whom is older than my youngest uncle. Most of my cousins have married, have kids of their own, some even have grandkids! Being part of a big family definitely takes getting used to. Especially because I haven’t seen anyone in ten years, it is tough trying to remember who is who and how I am related to them. Having a large family can be both a lot of fun and a lot of work.

Family life is very important here, especially in my family. Life is centered around the extended family. For married women, this means their in-laws’ family. When your daughter gets married, people often ask “Who are you giving her to?” – Just like the olden days, dowries and all, still the same traditions. Women are generally expected to follow traditional roles and rituals, cook, clean, give birth to many children, and in most cases, stay at home and look after the extended family (this phrase when translated literally from Nepali to English is “worship the in-laws”).

On a sidenote, I’m currently reading
The Help by Kathryn Stockett
amazing read and applicable to
more than just 1960s America.
My family spent a lot of time outside Nepal when my aunts and uncles were young so they are a lot more open-minded but in very old fashioned traditional Newar households, the father and mother-in-law have the highest status followed by the sons, then daughters, the daughter-in-law (bhawari) is the (unspoken) lowest status in a family, almost on par with the help.

*again only speaking about the extreme cases, usually those that families that are not well educated and/or strictly follow old traditional beliefs. Fortunately, modern, more reasonable, values concerning the roles of men and women in a family have started seeping in.

She must never eat at the same table as the mother-in-law, instead she eats last after serving everyone else. In some families the daughter-in-law cannot sit on chairs when the in laws are in the same room, either she stands or sits on the floor. She must ask permission before being allowed to leave the home, even to go to her own family’s house. When going to family functions, the women that married into the family help serve food and clean instead of being real guests.

A woman puts her family’s needs before her own and must listen to her in-laws no matter what, out of respect. Men are considered to be the bread-winners, generally free to do as they please, usually never lifting a finger at home. Boys are still valued more than girls. I have heard parents wish for more boys even just so they will have more bhawaries (daughter-in-laws) to take care of them.

I once heard a tourist ask her guide, “So, once a girl gets married, she’s kind of …a slave?” It was amusing to see the guide try and explain that it’s out of respect, but yes she must do as she’s told. The tourists laughed and replied that if they had to live with (/under) their in-laws, it would be torture.

I may complain that my life in the states is incredibly hectic, but women here have told me, “You might be busy but at least you’re independent, busy with your own life, but us? We don’t have our own lives; we are busy with our families’ lives.”

No one wants to embarrass their household so a lot of this is unspoken, the women find it easier to just deal with it than to speak up, afraid of what people might think. Maintaining an image is very important here. People will try to cover it up, but from what I have seen and heard, it is true.

I would never be able to live under anyone’s rule so obviously I am not a fan of the status of women here. BUT I know that this post is controversial, so of course there’s the flip side. Living with your extended family can definitely be great as long as people are open-minded and everyone gets along. There is always someone around - no need to leave your children with strangers at daycare or leave your aging parents in a nursing home. Family is close both physically and emotionally. Relatives would do almost anything for each other (and see each other more than twice a year). I have had a blast with my family here so I can understand the appeal of having a big family so close.

In the end it is always about balance, albeit balancing your own life with family life is a bit tricky in a society where family life is valued greatly and traditional roles/beliefs are still in play.

Friday, October 14, 2011

Healthcare Issues


I have been at Kanti Children’s Hospital for about four weeks. I’ve been holding off on posting about it because I had tons of other stuff to write about first, but now it’s time… 
Getting a chance to hear patients’ stories and concerns, and talk to senior consultants, residents, medical interns, and other volunteers over the past few weeks was an incredible learning experience. By asking a lot of questions, I learned a lot about medicine, diseases, diagnosis, and treatment but all of that can be found in a textbook and is far less interesting to read :)

Instead I’ll describe my observations in a global health standpoint.

*Just to clarify, this is strictly about public government hospitals – the private hospitals are a lot more up to standard but incredibly expensive (so I hear, haven’t started at a private hospital yet).


Approach to healthcare is different
Physicians here only really treat symptoms without doing too many tests to find the root cause. This is mostly due to the high patient volumes and the unreliability of test reports as well as cost and availability. Most of the time, they have to either send the samples out of the country to analyze because there aren’t sophisticated enough lab tests here, or instead treat by epidemiology, what is most probable (common in age, sex, background, history). If they can afford it, a lot of patients choose to fly to Delhi, India for treatment.

Treatment protocols themselves are different.
The basic science may be the same but I’m unlikely to use any of the protocols I ever see here. The World Health Organization (WHO) outlined an Integrated Management of Childhood Illness (IMCI) protocol for 3rd world countries. Even the doctors here think it is a very preliminary system of diagnosis and treatment. The thought is, it is better to over-treat than to miss the five common (often deadly if left untreated) symptoms/diseases:
     acute respiratory infection – pneumonia
     diarrhea (w or w/o dehydration)
     fever
     ear infection
     malnutrition

For instance, doctors and nurses are trained to treat for pneumonia solely on basis of high respiratory rate. Nowhere in the protocol does it mandate a chest x-ray but most doctors will order one here because it is readily available in the city. In rural areas, respiratory rate and listening to the lungs may be all the proof readily available.

Standard of living
Children everywhere get a viral cough and cold about 12 times a year; the figure is the same in developed and developing countries. BUT pneumonia is vastly higher in underdeveloped countries.
Why? Nutrition, hygiene and standard of living differences essentially lead to weakened defense processes and easier transmission and retention of infection.
Want proof? In the 1700s, TB was rampant all over the world. Now it is still plaguing developing countries, but decreased drastically in Europe and America, not due to medicine, but due to industrialization, enhanced living standards.

Until third world countries start to develop, people will be faced with disease and illness on top of their other struggles (perhaps because of their other struggles).

Lack of education
The hardest but most important job of a physician is patient education. In a developing country with traditional values, lack of general education, and sometimes just downright stubborn people, this can be a huge obstacle in treatment. Adherence is so important yet hardly ever accomplished. Most medications are available over the counter so it’s fairly easy to bypass doctors altogether. Lack of education is a huge barrier, not because of doctors using terminology; the doctors use layman’s terms and explain it clearly. Anyone with a little education would understand, but there are people with “purano bichar” (old thinking) for whom it will never fully click. There’s just a clear lack of understanding, perhaps because they are just not used to thinking on that level, “bani chaina” (it is just out of habit), or perhaps it’s a mixture of confusion and denial. If a doctor tells you that what you and your family have done for generations is “wrong,” it’s confusing news to take. This is especially hard in malnutrition, diabetes, and high blood pressure cases where environment, lifestyle and “chalun” (what’s customary) are influential factors.

From what I’ve seen, it’s usually one of two extremes.
Either the patients (& family) think the doctor is omniscient and medication will cure everything. One mom at the clinic came back for a follow up w/o getting any tests ordered done and just expected the doctor to know everything. Diabetes and high blood pressure patients often rely purely on meds without making any lifestyle changes no matter how many times it is explained to them that their lifestyle is the root of the problem and just taking meds isn’t a proper solution.

OR the patients don’t have any faith in what the doctor says and chooses not to listen. One salient example was a malnutrition case. The patients’ parents were extremely frustrated because their child kept getting sick every month or so and they had to keep shuttling him to different doctors. They were from a rural area of Nepal and had to travel far to seek care. I could see their eyes glaze over when the doctor I was on clinic duty with tried over and over to explain to them that their son’s weight was nowhere near where it should be and he will keep getting sick if they don’t bring it up. At 1yrs old, he was only 5kg (11lbs). They kept reiterating that they came here because their son’s throat hurt and he had a cold & cough. The doctors kept trying to explain it in different ways and gave them information for a malnutrition clinic. The parents were extremely hard to counsel. They just didn’t understand that malnutrition is the root of all his problems and that curing a one-time cold will not ultimately solve the problem; they’ll have to keep coming back.

Another related issue is public healthcare knowledge. Since a lot of Nepal’s citizens live in rural areas, they don’t necessarily receive the same health education. For example, some parents simply have no idea when to bring their babies in for vaccines so they bring them in late.

OTC availability
I have talked about this briefly before but I just want to reiterate that this is a big problem. People often complain in the states about having to get a prescription from the doctor before being allowed access to medications. Some may believe that drug crimes may decrease that way, but unnecessary damage occurs when people blindly take medications without regard for consequence. I have seen absurd cases of parents feeding their children the wrong medication. The doctors will flat out yell at the parents and ask why they didn’t seek medical advice because their child now has liver damage from taking adult doses of adult medications. In the U.S., it might take a few extra steps to get better, but those extra steps ensure that we won’t do some serious damage.


Organization
The number of patients usually determines quality of care. The number of patients a doctor sees a day at the clinic here is remarkable. People stand in line early in the morning to get two minutes with a doctor, not even by themselves. There are often 8+ patients and families in a tiny clinic cubicle at the same time. It is crowded, chaotic, and just so easy to get lost in the mix. If you don’t push and shove to get seen by the doctor, frankly, you just won’t. There is no luxury of privacy or confidentiality.

You would think that there is a shortage of doctors, but that’s not the case. The doctors here tell me that it is a management/organization problem. There is a significant lack of subspecialties. Already considered a specialty, Kanti (pediatric hospital) just recently separated departments.

The government says healthcare is a priority but according to the budget, only 7.1% is allocated to healthcare. There is no systematic health insurance except for government workers and some small private insurance companies. People with disabilities only get help on the NGO level. There are no systems in place to help them and disability is often looked down upon.

What is being done?
Nepal has pledged to work towards the UN Millennium Development Goals. You can read more about it at http://www.undp.org.np/mdg/

Friday, October 7, 2011

Victory


Yesterday was the tenth day of Dashain, one of the biggest holidays celebrated throughout the country. 

The tenth day (Tikka ko din), everyone receives a tikka from the eldest member of your own household and in the next 5 days you go to every household in your family to receive tikka from the eldest member there. 

Families get together and feast to celebrate the victory of the gods over the demons.




Last night, my mom left for NY.
...leaving me alone to represent our family at the celebrations.

Today, my oldest uncle hosted a feast for our entire family (easily over 100 people). It was my first big family party in a decade and I had to tackle it on my own. I still have not met everyone so I was a bit nervous but the party was a blast.


I was told that my language skills have gone from 60 to 85% which is reason enough to celebrate.


I’ll miss my mom being here 
but I feel more confident than ever that I can handle this alone.

Monday, October 3, 2011

Things to do in Pokhara


Pokhara is a smaller city outside the capital with a beautiful mountain view and a lot less traffic than Kathmandu :)

Here are some highlights of the whirlwind sightseeing after seeing sunrise that morning.

Bindibhasini temple – one of the most famous temples in Pokhara



Shanti Stupa - A Buddhist shrine on top of a hill.







   
Or I can fly there...

The walk to Shanti Stupa
















Gupteshwar Mahadev – Shiva Mundir inside a cave! Unfortunately no cameras allowed inside.


produce straight from the farm - yum!


Water! (Tal means lake)


Devi’s Falls

                  
Rainbow :)
Fewatal mundir by boat



    




             



Begnastal
 


the fate of those fish later
Fishing!





















After a long day of sightseeing, we rest up for the drive home Tuesday morning.